Tarantulas have exoskeletons and in growing need to undergo a process known as molting.
Molting is the process wherein a tarantula grows it's new exoskeleton under the old one,
partially absorbs the underlying layers of the old skin and then emerges from the old exoskeleton
looking all shiny and new. It usually takes some time for the spider to recover from this molting
process. The new exoskeleton is soft, and needs to harden before the animal can resume eating,
walking and other routine activities. Tarantulas generally molt on their backs or sides. If you wake
up one morning and see your tarantula on it's back or side, DO NOT touch it. Molting is a very
strenuous and dangerous time for tarantulas. One sign of an impending molt is loss of appetite for
a few days to as long as a few months before the molt. In New World species another sign is if there
is a bald spot on your tarantulas abdomen, you may see the skin begin to turn black. This is the new
exoskeleton forming and separating from the old and is no cause to be alarmed. If you see signs of
an impending molt the best thing to do is make sure there are no crickets or other prey items in the
tank as they can harm the tarantula while it is defenseless and to increase the humidity as excessive
dryness can hinder a successful molt. Then just sit back and watch as your wonderful pet renews
itself. Molting generally takes a few hours for an adult tarantula to complete from the time you
find it on it's back. If your spider gets stuck in it's molt, the humidity may be too low, this can be
rectified by misting the enclosure with water. Be sure NOT to mist the tarantula directly. If the
molt takes longer than a day or so, emergency measures may be called for. You can try to take
a pair of forceps and VERY GENTLY try to pull off the exoskeleton by pulling on the ends of the
old leg skin. Trouble spots can also be loosened by applying a diluted solution of glycerin and
water to the area that is 'stuck'. If a tarantula gets injured during a molt, the loss of hemolymph (blood)
can be fatal, so any physical contact with the spider during a molt must be avoided if possible.
Do not introduce prey into the enclosure for at least a week after a molt. It takes time for the
tarantulas new exoskeleton to sclerotise (harden) and during this time the tarantula is extremely vulnerable.
One sign that your tarantula is ready to eat is if the fangs are black and shiny.
If they are still pink it is too soon as the fangs have not hardened yet and your tarantula can deform or
lose it's fangs trying to eat, with possible fatal consequences. Once your tarantula is ready to eat
again it will probably be quite hungry and will eat heavily for a period of time. Very young tarantulas
and very old tarantulas are most likely to experience molting problems. The young are vulnerable to
desiccation (drying out) and the old have been known to have premature molts, or failure to molt
thought to be caused by hormone imbalances. Elderly tarantulas have also been known to
experience some difficulty molting because the may lack the stamina needed to get them through
such a physically demanding ordeal. All in all molting is one of the most fascinating things in the
hobby and the process opens up many possibilities for the keeper to learn growth rates and other
valuable information about each species.

Randy Chuah
http://randychuah.cjb.net
**Care sheet for Tarantula @ www.ArachnoBoards.com